BANGKOK

Away from its crowds and chaotic traffic, Bangkok can be surprisingly charming

Exquisite temples, exotic cuisine, a rich tradition… and more await the visitor.

On a recent visit, we saw the city's water-transport, elephants on busy streets, and people fishing for dinner right outside their homes, and finally, hold your breath, found 'Happiness'

We set out in pre-dawn light. Roadside eateries were already putting out steaming rice congee, noodles and fried rice served with chicken, sausages on skewers, and fried seafood.

Across the road, in the morning mist, stood three elephants, swaying and oblivious to the traffic. Roadside diners were enjoying the pachyderms' stony antics while nervous motorists were desperately trying to shoo them out of the way. Their short, shrill bursts of horn didn't work. Luckily before the sounds intensified and frightened the animals, the mahouts appeared out of nowhere and quietly led them away.

We first saw the canal boats or water taxis from our hotel's 15th floor: They were charging up and down the canal in showers of spray like iridescent barracudas.

Integral waterways

The splashy commute in modern day. Bangkok is popular and throws up ops to experience the city's famed waterways.

For centuries, water transport has been an integral part of Bangkok. Until recently he city was built largely on floating pontoons, along canals and watercourses.

In the 1700s, when the country was attacked by Burma, it was the waterways and the peasants' ingenious tactics that frustrated the enemy from stealing a quick victory… and the riches in Thai temples, At that time, the Burmese enlisted Portuguese mercenaries, and formed a mighty army of 100,000 to capture Siam. But the simple and courageous paddy cultivators frustrated their attempts. This saga of epic violence folklore, and essayed brilliantly in the award-winning Thai movie, "Tanit Jitnukul's Bangrajan"(2000).

Today the Chao Phraya, which flowed with the blood of many a battle, is a picture of calm. Fleets of small steamers, schooners, junks, teakwood rice barges, and rafts move on it. Commerce thrives on its waters. Parents take children to school on motorboats. And early in the day, monks paddle door-to-door seeking alms.

That placid scene seems set to change. Bangkok's water-bodies are being threatened by the constant land reclamation for hotels and resorts, and tourism-driven infrastructure. Already, where once paddy swayed gently in the fields or water buffaloes wallowed in the swamps, real estate is claiming the alluvial site. Construction activities are steadily devouring the well green landscape.

To get a view of the vanishing amphibious way of life, a good place is the Chao Phraya at its busiest point: the jetty at Thatien by Wat Phra where life seems to have been frozen in a charming time warp.

Age-old open-fronted houses stand on stilts. Young women with infants catch fish from their doorstep. At the floating market, people in shallow skiffs trade in an interesting range of items.

Old ladies in hats gently paddle their boats and beckon people with fish and meats, vegetables, guavas, bananas, rambutan, mangosteen and durian, and beautifully arranged colorful flowers.

Food vendors drift about, with gas stoves, serving steaming hot rice and spicy curries.

Golden temple

No visit to Bangkok is complete without a visit to the golden temple complex of the Wat Phra Keow, with its collection of pagodas, frescos and mosaics. The shiny gold, red arching roofs and decorative elements set the Wat apart.

Close by is the National Museum with its impressive collection of statues, artifacts dating right from Neolithic times.

Next to the old University is the sprawling field of Sanam Luang. Across this wind-swept field lined with tamarind trees invariably is a gathering of sunbathers-backpackers from around the work.

At the Palace and Wat Phra Chetuphon, the city's oldest and largest temple with its dazzling tile roofs and gilded spires, is the 46-metre-long gold-plated reclining Buddha.

Thai massage

In its ground is popular massage hall. Alabaster white bodies are stretched and bent this way and that, and kneaded like pizza dough there. The aroma of camphor and lemon grass hangs in the air. The matronly masseuses work silently, as the customers groan and moan to the whirring of the over-worked fans. This is the famed Thai massage. An euphemism for Paid Sex? No way.

At the Chatuchak Weekend Market, amidst he teeming stalls of food, clothing and jewellery, lurk peripatetic country 'therapists' waiting for their 'catch'. They offer cures for all manner of ailments - from arthritis to diabetes to broken hearts!

"You have man's problems? Asked one silver-tongued orator flashing a jar of hideous-looking oil with a 'Happiness' label. "Buy 'Happiness'", the man whispered, "Girl problem disappear. Only 100 baht. 'Happiness' cheap, no?"